Monday, June 30, 2014

Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt

Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt

Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt



Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt:

1. Cut a correct pattern before beginning the skirt. Do not trust to making corrections when cutting out.

2. Baste the straight edge of one gore to the bias edge of another when making a gored skirt. This prevents the sagging which would occur if two bias edges were sewed together.

3. Allow plenty in hem and tucks for letting down when making garments for growing girls.

Exercise No. 39 an Underskirt.

Exercise No. 39 an Underskirt.

Exercise No. 39 an Underskirt.


Materials: Pupils will furnish their own material for an underskirt for themselves. The patterns which their mothers use can be secured from the home, or one pattern used by all the members of the class. These skirts may be made plain or trimmed with tucked ruffles of cloth or with embroidery, depending upon the wishes of the mothers, the skill and taste of the individuals and the material furnished. Should there be difficulty in securing material for the garment, a small model on the half-inch scale or one of the electives can be substituted. Insist that the work be well done, neatly finished and first class throughout. Use sewing machines when available.

Sunday, June 29, 2014

One and one-half inches finished

One and one-half inches finished

One and one-half inches finished



Length of bands: On the first half, short bands cut two inches, one and one-half inches finished; long band cut four inches, three and one-half inches finished; on the last half, bands cut three and three quarters inches, three and one-quarter inches finished.

Sew the two sections of the Sampler together with the French seam. The section having the two openings is a little narrower than the other. Baste the two sections together, basting the little pleats at the end of the placket and the nightgown opening, and sew them into the seam. Do not cut off the long side until basted nearly across, then cut off and hem the side. Finish with the last band.

Exercise No. 38 Placket Sampler Bands Hemmed And Overhanded.

Exercise No. 38 Placket Sampler Bands Hemmed And Overhanded.

Exercise No. 38 Placket Sampler Bands Hemmed And Overhanded.


See description of Bands and Gathering, and .

To avoid soiling the cloth put the bands on before seaming the halves of the Placket Sampler together. This can be done with the exception of the band on the long side of the nightgown opening, which will have to be done after this side is basted to the other section, cut off and hemmed, and will therefore be the last thing to be done on the Sampler. Put the hemmed bands on the side having the placket and the gusset, and the overhand bands on the side of the nightgown opening.

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Exercise No. 37 a Hemstitched Collar.

Exercise No. 37 a Hemstitched Collar.

Exercise No. 37 a Hemstitched Collar.


Materials: Butcher's linen, collar 15½" warp by 3" woof, India linen band 15½" warp by 1½" woof; practice piece 6" warp by 4" woof; white thread No. 80; needle No. 8.

Measure the neck and decide upon the length of collar and width of hem before trimming.

See directions for Hemstitching, .

Put the collar band on the collar. The collars may be still further ornamented with fine feather stitching, the star stitch or French knots.

Exercise No. 36 Placket Sampler The Shirt Sleeve or Nightgown Opening.

Exercise No. 36 Placket Sampler The Shirt Sleeve or Nightgown Opening.

Exercise No. 36 Placket Sampler The Shirt Sleeve or Nightgown Opening.


Materials: Half of the large piece of calico; facing 18" × 2".

Fold with the warp through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for the Nightgown Opening. Hem the side of the narrower part with a quarter-inch hem.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Exercise No. 35 Buttonholes.

Exercise No. 35 Buttonholes.

Exercise No. 35 Buttonholes.


Materials: Blue Percale 9" woof by 4" warp; scraps of calico for practice pieces; white thread No. 40 and No. 80; needles No. 7 and No. 8.

Remember the old adage Practice Makes Perfect.

See description of the Buttonhole, .

Note: Scraps and odd pieces of calico can be used for the practice work on buttonholes. As the buttonhole requires a great deal of practice it is well to keep these pieces in the sewing box and work at it at odd times during the progress of the years' work. Encourage the girls, too, to practice on the buttonhole for home work. In this way they will gradually acquire the skill which only comes with practice. Fold the cloth, wrong side out, with the woof and through the center, and baste the edges together. Begin with the blind buttonhole.

The buttonhole model is intended to show how much skill has been acquired. Fold the percale through the center, with the woof, and baste the edges together. Make the buttonholes three-fourths of an inch long and one inch apart.

Exercise No. 34 Placket Sampler The Gusset.

Exercise No. 34 Placket Sampler The Gusset.

Exercise No. 34 Placket Sampler The Gusset.


Second section of the Placket Sampler.

Materials: The second quarter of the large piece of calico; a two-inch square of calico for the gusset.

Fold with the warp through the center, and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for making the gusset. Sew the two sections together with the French fell. Hem the sides with a quarter-inch hem.

Exercise No. 33 an Apron The Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 33 an Apron The Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 33 an Apron The Christmas Piece.


Materials: Pupils will select and furnish their own materials for an apron. This may be of any style or kind, and will afford an excellent opportunity for carrying out their individual tastes. This may necessitate the teaching of the principles of bands which can be done with the practice piece. See description of Bands, .


PLACKET SAMPLER (BACK VIEW).

APRONS EXERCISE NO. 33.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Exercise No. 32 Placket Sampler a Placket.

Exercise No. 32 Placket Sampler a Placket.

Exercise No. 32 Placket Sampler a Placket.


Materials: Calico 12" woof, 14" warp; facings and bands 58" × 2"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

See description of Plackets, .

Upon this sampler is taught the placket, the gusset, the nightgown opening and two different methods of putting on bands, and in addition a review of the French seam and the French fell. It is made in sections which are combined later. These lessons are interspersed with other exercises that the pupils may not become tired of this piece. Teach the placket and the nightgown opening first on paper. It will save time and trouble in the end. Fold the large piece of calico across the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Fold one of these pieces with the warp, through the center and cut. The first exercise of the "Placket Sampler" is done on one of these quarters. As these sections are to be sewed together later each girl must have her own pieces. To avoid the possibility of their being lost or soiled, those not in use should be wrapped in paper, labeled and collected by the teacher and kept until ready for Exercise No. 34.


PLACKET SAMPLER (FRONT VIEW).

First section of the Placket Sampler: Fold the piece of calico with the warp, through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for making Placket B. Facing eleven inches by two inches.

Follow the exercise in stockinet darning

Follow the exercise in stockinet darning

Follow the exercise in stockinet darning



Follow the exercise in stockinet darning, in which the principles of darning have been taught, with the darning of a pair of worn stockings that the pupils have brought from home. Every child in the class must be given this practical and useful experience. If there is difficulty in securing these stockings, members of the class or the teacher can readily supply the deficiency.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Exercise No. 31 Stocking Darning.

Exercise No. 31 Stocking Darning.

Exercise No. 31 Stocking Darning.


Materials: Stockinet 4" × 4"; cardboard 3" × 3"; darning cotton; darning needle; a pair of worn stockings.

See description of Stocking Darning, .

Pupils will furnish their own cardboard and have it cut and ready for the lesson, also a pair of worn stockings.

The cardboard is a substitute for the darning ball. Do not stretch the cloth too tightly over the card, nor put in a needless number of stitches at the back to hold it on, five or six being sufficient to hold it temporarily in place. The darning cotton winds from the spool in several strands loosely twisted together. Separate and use two, three or more strands, depending upon the texture of the cloth to be darned. Take care not to split the threads when weaving across them, and also avoid putting the threads so far apart that holes are left between them. In fact, try to have pupils understand that they are supplying a piece of cloth that has been worn away, and that when finished should match as nearly as possible in color and texture the cloth that is being repaired. Stockinet, like stockings, is a knitted, not a woven fabric, and as every stitch is drawn through the one below it, it is very necessary that the loops be caught before they ravel back. Prepare the hole for darning by whipping the edge with fine thread, catching up all the severed loops. Either a round or an oblong hole may be cut in the stockinet, the round hole being three-fourths of an inch across, and the oblong three-fourths of an inch by one inch.


STOCKINET DARNING.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.


Prepare Thread Cards Cardboard 4" × 4" designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 31 Stocking Darning.

Exercise No. 32 Placket Sampler A Placket.

Exercise No. 33 An Apron Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 34 Placket Sampler The Gusset.

Exercise No. 35 Buttonholes.

Exercise No. 36 Placket Sampler The Nightgown Opening.

Exercise No. 37 Hemstitched Collar or Handkerchief.

Exercise No. 38 Placket Sampler Bands.

Exercise No. 39 An Underskirt.

Exercise No. 40 Textile Fibers and Fabrics Flax.

, , See Electives, .

Detailed Description of Exercises.


Teach the yard measure and its divisions.

See note under Exercise No. 35 Buttonholes.


STOCKINET DARNING.

Fourth Year Sixth Grade.

Fourth Year Sixth Grade.

Fourth Year Sixth Grade.


Course of instruction.

Equipment.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 30 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece unbleached muslin 9" × 12".

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

A Book Bag.

A Book Bag.

A Book Bag.


Materials: Galatea, kaiki or burlap 15" woof, 13" warp; two strips for handles 14" warp by 3" woof; thread No. 40; needle No. 7.

The decoration of the bag should be done before sewing up the ends. Very artistic effects can be obtained in the applique. See directions for the design of the book cover, .

Cut a three-inch strip from the length of the piece for the end pieces. Divide this into two pieces seven and one-half by three inches. Find the middle of one end of both end pieces and notch them. Fold the large piece with the warp through the center and notch at both ends of the fold. Turn in a quarter of an inch around the large piece and baste. Turn in a quarter of an inch across the notched end and sides of the end pieces. Place the notch at the end of one side piece to one in the large piece, right sides together, and pin in place. Overhand on the wrong side the two together across the end and up both sides. Put in the other end piece in the same way. Trim the end pieces even with the top of the case. Turn a three-quarter inch hem at the top. Before hemming make the straps for the handles by turning in and overhanding the edges. Insert both ends of one strap under the hem of the right side of the bag, two inches from the middle or four inches apart and the other strap on the left side. Hem, and fasten the handles to the edge of the hem by backstitching.

A cover for a pin cushion affords a good application for the mitered corner. This can be made any size, square or oblong. Ornament with fine feather stitching and the star stitch.

Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams

Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams

Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams



To Make the Book Cover: Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams. Overcast the raw edges at the top and bottom of the cover and hem with a quarter-inch hem the two ends that fold into the book. The raw-edged hem, finished with the herringbone stitch, could be used in place of the plain hem, if desired. Turn in the top and bottom of the cover so that the book will slip in easily. Overhand that part which folds into the books to the outside, at top and bottom, thus forming the pockets into which the covers of the book slip. Do the overhanding on the wrong side and then turn it to the right side.

A Book Cover.

A Book Cover.

A Book Cover.


Materials: Grass linen or Holland 15" woof by 10" warp; white thread No. 60; needles Nos. 8 and 5; luster cotton.

The Design: Start several weeks before the class is ready to make it, arouse an interest, and study designs for book covers. Ask pupils to bring from home books having good designs on the covers. Have them tell why they like certain ones and do not favor others. In a word, educate their tastes in this line before expecting them to originate designs. Do not attempt anything elaborate. Many artistic effects can be obtained by interlacing straight lines and these have the advantage of being easily worked. Paper cutting is an excellent medium for experimenting, if a unit is to be repeated or if curves are desired in the outline. For example, fold an oblong, four and one-half by seven inches, through the center both ways, and cut on a slightly curving line from the folded edges to the corner. Quite a variety of simple, graceful outlines can be made by slightly varying these curves, which, with a simple unit repeated around the center or in each corner makes an effective design. Have the finished pattern before starting the book cover. Trace on the cloth by means of the carbon paper. It will be necessary to crease the cover over the book before putting on the design, so that it may be placed just right.

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces



The Holder: Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces. Turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces. Place the wadding between them; pin and baste together. Overhand the folded edges. Quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch.

The Case: Cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces. Fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut, and hem. The pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case. This could be traced, or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse, colored thread in any decorative stitch, before making the case. Place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge. This will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip. Make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt, by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together. The raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening, so that it will come under the binding. See description of the Bias, . Teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces, first with paper and then with the cloth. In order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together. Stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap. Slip the holder into the case.

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces

Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces



The Holder: Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces. Turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces. Place the wadding between them; pin and baste together. Overhand the folded edges. Quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch.

The Case: Cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces. Fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut, and hem. The pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case. This could be traced, or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse, colored thread in any decorative stitch, before making the case. Place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge. This will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip. Make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt, by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together. The raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening, so that it will come under the binding. See description of the Bias, . Teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces, first with paper and then with the cloth. In order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together. Stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap. Slip the holder into the case.

Monday, June 23, 2014

A Round Holder And Case.

A Round Holder And Case.

A Round Holder And Case.


Materials: Unbleached muslin, 14" × 7"; bleached muslin 15" × 7¾"; strap 18" × 1½"; bias binding 25" × 1"; wadding.

To cut the Circular Pattern: Cut a square of paper eight inches by eight inches and fold it three times. Measure three and five-eighth inches from the point on each folded edge and once between these edges. Draw a curved line connecting these points and cut on the line. The case is cut from this pattern, a circle having a radius of three and five-eighth inches and the holder from a pattern one-fourth of an inch smaller with a radius of three and three-eighth inches.

Electives.

Electives.

Electives.


The round holder and case may be substituted for the basketry, or a blank book with paper cover or the folding envelope case may be made instead. See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," .

The pin cushion may be substituted for the basketry and the book cover, or the book bag, or the round holder given for Exercise No. 29.

A book cover or a book bag for carrying books may be substituted for the pin cushion.

Exercise No. 30 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Cotton.

Exercise No. 30 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Cotton.

Exercise No. 30 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Cotton.


Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," , will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fifth grade subject is cotton. Many interesting collections can be made that will be instructive for the children.


PIN CUSHIONS TO ILLUSTRATE EXERCISE NO. 29.

a. Cotton fabrics with their names and uses.

b. Pictures.

c. Cotton fiber in the various stages of manufacture.

d. Maps upon which can be located the countries producing cotton and cities noted for the manufacture of cotton cloth.

e. Compositions on cotton and allied subjects.

Exercise No. 28 a Garment Brought From Home to be Mended.

Exercise No. 28 a Garment Brought From Home to be Mended.

Exercise No. 28 a Garment Brought From Home to be Mended.


Ask every pupil to bring some article from home, in preference a garment, to be mended. There is no home that cannot furnish a garment that needs repairing. This is a practical application of Exercises 21, 23 or 26, and is a valuable experience for the children.

Exercise No. 29 a Pin Cushion.

Exercise No. 29 a Pin Cushion.

Exercise No. 29 a Pin Cushion.


Materials: These will be furnished by the pupils.

Pupils and teachers will plan their own designs, adapting them to the material furnished. The cushions may be of any size, shape or kind. Do not have the children incur expense, as small pieces of ribbon, silk or bright bits of many kinds of cloth can be made into attractive cushions. Hardwood sawdust, sifted, makes an excellent filling.


PIN CUSHIONS TO ILLUSTRATE EXERCISE NO. 29.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern

Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern

Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern



Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern. Beginning at the center of the bottom and holding the wrong side of the cloth next to you, baste the edge of the sleeve protector to the line running through the middle of the tape. Make a tiny pleat in the tape at each corner so that when doubled over it will round the corners smoothly. Join the ends of the tape by folding back both ends and overhanding them together on the wrong side. Hem the tape down on the right side. Before basting the tape down on the wrong side, fasten the elastic in place on one side of the sleeve protector. The elastic is in two pieces, two inches in length. Place the first piece one inch from the bottom and the second piece three inches above the first. Baste the tape down on the wrong side and hem, leaving the opening for the other end of the elastic, which is fastened in place after the hemming is done. Lay the binding smooth over the elastic and stitch along the edge of the tape, through the elastic, to hold in place.

To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector

To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector

To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector



To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector: Cut an oblong eight inches by ten and one-half inches. Fold through the center the long way. Mark the top of the folded edge A, the bottom B, the upper right hand corner C and the lower D. Measure down on the folded edge from A four inches and mark E. Measure down from C four inches and mark F. Measure up from D five inches and mark G. Measure on the line B D three and one fourth inches from B and mark H. Connect G and H with a straight line. With E as the center and E A as the radius draw a quarter of a circle connecting A and F. Cut on the lines H G, and A F.

Exercise No. 27 a Pair of Sleeve Protectors.

Exercise No. 27 a Pair of Sleeve Protectors.

Exercise No. 27 a Pair of Sleeve Protectors.


Materials: Cotton twill 8½" × 11"; tape 36"; ribbon elastic 4"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.


A COOKING SET, CONSISTING OF AN APRON (EXERCISE NO. 33), SLEEVE PROTECTORS (EXERCISE NO. 27), AND A HOLDER AND CASE (AN ELECTIVE FOR EXERCISE NO. 24).

Exercise No. 26 Flannel Patch.

Exercise No. 26 Flannel Patch.

Exercise No. 26 Flannel Patch.


Materials: Flannel 6½" × 6½", patch 3" × 3"; sewing silk; needle No. 8.

See description of the Herringbone Stitch, .

Cut from the center of the large piece of flannel a two-inch square. Trim the patch square and place it over this hole. Baste at both edges. Teach the herringbone stitch on the practice piece, and herringbone over the raw edges of the patch. Turn one fold three-eighths of an inch wide on the four sides of the large piece, baste and herringbone stitch the raw edge. Keep the raw edges trimmed.

Exercise No. 25 Napkin Damask Hem.

Exercise No. 25 Napkin Damask Hem.

Exercise No. 25 Napkin Damask Hem.


Materials: Damask 8½" × 8½"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

See Description of the Damask Hem, .

Trim the napkin square. Crease a half-inch hem on the four sides. The corners are to be mitered, and this is more easily done by basting the side hems in place, skipping across the corners when basting. Turn out the corners and miter them. Hem the corners with the flat hem and the sides with the damask hem.

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Exercise No. 24 Basketry Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 24 Basketry Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 24 Basketry Christmas Piece.


This subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style, size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her class, allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes.

See chapter on "Basketry," .


A COOKING SET, CONSISTING OF AN APRON (EXERCISE NO. 33), SLEEVE PROTECTORS (EXERCISE NO. 27), AND A HOLDER AND CASE (AN ELECTIVE FOR EXERCISE NO. 24).

Fold the large piece of gingham with the

Fold the large piece of gingham with the

Fold the large piece of gingham with the



Fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center. The following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch:

1. Measure on each side of the center, with the warp, one and one-fourth inches and with the woof three-fourths of an inch. Mark with pins.

2. Cut out the oblong at these points (or as near as the pattern permits, observing also the pattern of the patch to be used.)

3. Clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in.

4. Turn in the fold on the four sides of the hole.

5. Crease the folds on the four sides of the patch so that it will fit exactly into the hole, matching patterns.

6. Beginning near the middle of one side overhand the patch in, matching as you overhand. Do not baste.

The two patched pieces are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp, matching the pattern, baste together and overhand.

Teach the Overcasting on the Practice Piece and overcast all raw edges on the Patching Sampler.

Exercise No. 23 Overhand Patch.

Exercise No. 23 Overhand Patch.

Exercise No. 23 Overhand Patch.


Materials: Second section of the Patching Sampler.

The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as lawn, dimity or organdy, where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable. The pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners. A paper pattern will assist beginners.

Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides

Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides

Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides



Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. Place the patch in the center of the large piece (which we will imagine to be worn) and baste around it, matching the pattern carefully. Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right. Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:

1. Measure one-half inch (or as near it as the pattern will permit) from the edge of the patch, using pins for marking the line where it is to be cut.

2. Cut out the center, leaving about one-half inch extending over the patch.

3. Clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in. Take great care and do not cut in too far, as this will spoil the patch.

4. Turn in the edge, baste and hem.

5. Hem the patch on the wrong side.


The mitered corner.

Exercise No. 22 Mitered Corner.

Exercise No. 22 Mitered Corner.

Exercise No. 22 Mitered Corner.


Materials: Paper.

Teach the mitered corner on paper only. Have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done, and can do it alone, rapidly and perfectly. Ask pupils to bring paper from home, as almost any kind will do for this practice work. Have it made in hems of several widths. See description of "Miscellaneous" exercises, .


The mitered corner.

Friday, June 20, 2014

Exercise No. 21 Hemmed Patch.

Exercise No. 21 Hemmed Patch.

Exercise No. 21 Hemmed Patch.


Materials: First section of Patching Sampler.

The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. When matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.

Patching Sampler.

Patching Sampler.

Detailed Description of Exercises.


Review the divisions of the inch.

Patching Sampler.


Materials: Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth, that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern, when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.

Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches woof, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches. Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for Exercise No. 23.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.


Prepare Thread Cards Cardboard 4" × 4" designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 21 Patching Sampler Hemmed Patch.

Exercise No. 22 Mitered Corner.

Exercise No. 23 Patching Sampler Overhand Patch.

Exercise No. 24 Basketry Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 25 Napkin Damask Hem.

Exercise No. 26 Flannel Patch.

Exercise No. 27 A Pair of Sleeve Protectors.

Exercise No. 28 A Garment Brought from Home to be Repaired.

Exercise No. 29 A Pin Cushion.

Exercise No. 30 Textile Fibers and Fabrics Cotton.

, , See Electives, See Electives, .

Third Year Fifth Grade.

Third Year Fifth Grade.

Third Year Fifth Grade.


Course of instruction.

EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 30 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece Unbleached muslin 9" × 12".

Third Year Fifth Grade.

Third Year Fifth Grade.

Third Year Fifth Grade.


Course of instruction.

EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 30 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece Unbleached muslin 9" × 12".

Thursday, June 19, 2014

The order of the doily and the bag may be reversed

The order of the doily and the bag may be reversed

The order of the doily and the bag may be reversed



The order of the doily and the bag may be reversed, using the doily for the Christmas piece instead of the bag, or the paper box may be substituted. See "Cloth and Cardboard Construction," .

Simple toilet articles in white, such as a handkerchief case, may be substituted for the doily, teachers planning their own designs.

One pillow-case may be omitted and a pillow for the other case made instead. This may be stuffed with crumpled bits of paper. Use unbleached muslin for the pillow.

Electives. Cut the two pieces for the lining.

Electives. Cut the two pieces for the lining.

Electives. Cut the two pieces for the lining.


A choice may be had between the strawberry and the tomato emery ball.

Tomato Emery Ball Materials: Unbleached muslin 6" × 3"; red cashmere 6" × 3"; emery powder; red thread No. 50; green luster cotton.

To cut the pattern: Draw a circle one and one-fourth inches in radius and cut on the line.

Cut the two pieces for the lining and the two for the outside of the same size. Place the right sides of the two pieces of cashmere together between the two pieces of lining. Baste all together. Sew with the back stitch one-fourth of an inch from the edge, leaving an opening for turning and filling. Turn in a seam at the opening, fill with powder and close by overhanding the edges together. Flatten as much as possible and make the creases seen in the tomato by tightly drawing the thread of luster cotton from the center around the outside and back to the center, repeating several times. Make a little tuft of the luster cotton in the middle at the top.

Exercise No. 20 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Silk.

Exercise No. 20 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Silk.

Exercise No. 20 Textile Fibers And Fabrics Silk.


Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," , will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fourth grade subject is silk. Secure if possible the silk cocoon and make a collection of silk fabrics. Language papers on the subject can be illustrated with pictures cut from papers and magazines.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.


Materials: Seam Sampler.

Sew Section Three of the Seam Sampler to the others with the French Fell. Follow directions for the French Fell.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.

Exercise No. 19 French Fell.


Materials: Seam Sampler.

Sew Section Three of the Seam Sampler to the others with the French Fell. Follow directions for the French Fell.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Exercise No. 18 a Pair of Miniature Pillow Cases.

Exercise No. 18 a Pair of Miniature Pillow Cases.

Exercise No. 18 a Pair of Miniature Pillow Cases.


Materials: Two pieces bleached muslin 7½" warp, 8½" woof; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

In a pillow case the warp threads should run lengthwise of the pillow. Crease a quarter-inch fold across one end and on both sides. Fold with the warp through the center so that the seam just turned comes on the inside, baste the folded edges together on the right side. Overhand on the right side, using no knot, but sewing over the end of the thread. Turn a three-quarter inch hem, baste and hem. Trim the seam and overcast.

Exercise No. 17 French Seam.

Exercise No. 17 French Seam.

Exercise No. 17 French Seam.


Materials: Third section of the Seam Sampler.

Fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Follow the directions for the French Seam.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Exercise No. 16 a Doily Blanket Stitch And The Kensington Outline Stitch.

Exercise No. 16 a Doily Blanket Stitch And The Kensington Outline Stitch.

Exercise No. 16 a Doily Blanket Stitch And The Kensington Outline Stitch.


Materials: Imitation Butchers' Linen 9" × 9"; white luster cotton; needle No. 5.

An exercise in paper cutting for the doily design. Have pupils provide themselves with ten or twelve pieces of paper eight inches square for practice cutting. Fold the first paper three times and cut a convex, concave or compound curve from corner to corner. Open and study these curved lines and select the most graceful. Cut again making corrections. Cut a design in straight lines. Cut one composed of both straight and curved lines. Do not work haphazard, but criticise, compare and reject. The surface requires little decoration if the doily is pleasing in outline. That which is placed upon it should have some relation to the outline. Study the space to be decorated and how it can be divided or ornamented by lines, curved or straight, that may serve as a real decoration, but avoid too elaborate designs. Before beginning the doily have a finished pattern. The pattern may be transferred to the cloth by tracing the pattern with a hard pencil, using carbon paper between pattern and cloth, or the pattern may be pinned on and the outline drawn and the design put on freehand.


Original designs for the doily by fourth grade girls.

To work the Doily. Finish the edge with the blanket stitch. See "Blanket Stitch," . Work the lines of the design with the Kensington Outline Stitch.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.


Materials: First and second sections of the Seam Sampler.

Baste the two sections together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Sew with the half-back stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.

Exercise No. 15 Half-back Stitching.


Materials: First and second sections of the Seam Sampler.

Baste the two sections together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Sew with the half-back stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Following are the directions for a simple button-bag

Following are the directions for a simple button-bag

Following are the directions for a simple button-bag



Following are the directions for a simple button-bag:

Materials: A soft washable fabric, 14" warp, 6" woof; thread; needles; narrow tape 26 inches.


Bags to illustrate exercise no. 14.

Crease an inch hem at each end. Fold the cloth with the two hems right sides together and baste from the lower edge of the hems to the bottom of the bag. Stitch a quarter-inch seam. Turn in the ends of the hems even with the sides of the bag and overhand from the top five-eighths of an inch, leaving an opening for the tapes three-eighths of an inch wide at the bottom of the hem. Baste and hem the hems, fastening securely at each side of the tape openings, as there is considerable strain when the tapes are drawn. Put in a row of running stitches parallel to and five-eighths of an inch from the top of the bag, for the tape opening. With a tape needle draw in the two tapes, sew the ends of each together and draw out of opposite openings so that the place of joining will not show. Overcast the seams.

Exercise No. 14 Bags Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 14 Bags Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 14 Bags Christmas Piece.


The Christmas Piece will consist of bags of any size, shape or style for which the pupils wish to furnish their own materials. This gives the teacher an opportunity to exercise her own ingenuity and taste and to have some individuality in her work. There is a great variety, from the utility bag made of cheap, pretty material, costing only a few pennies, to the more elaborate ones made of dainty silk or ribbon. A little tact will easily adapt the style of bag to the home into which it is to go, for the purpose for which it is to be used, and the purse of the donor.


Bags to illustrate exercise no. 14.

Exercise No. 13 Seam b Stitching.

Exercise No. 13 Seam b Stitching.

Exercise No. 13 Seam b Stitching.


Materials: Second section of Seam Sampler.

Fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches



Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches, with yellow thread, to represent the seeds of the strawberry as follows: Hold the wrong side of the cloth toward you and put in a row of tiny stitches half an inch apart. One-fourth of an inch above these put in another row with the stitches midway between those of the last row, and so continue. If desired these may be omitted and the seeds represented by French knots when the strawberry is finished.

Seam up the outside, slip it over the case, arranging the seams on opposite sides to avoid the possibility of powder sifting through. Overhand the top and cover with the green luster cotton to represent the calyx, leaving a loop for the stem.

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches



Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches, with yellow thread, to represent the seeds of the strawberry as follows: Hold the wrong side of the cloth toward you and put in a row of tiny stitches half an inch apart. One-fourth of an inch above these put in another row with the stitches midway between those of the last row, and so continue. If desired these may be omitted and the seeds represented by French knots when the strawberry is finished.

Seam up the outside, slip it over the case, arranging the seams on opposite sides to avoid the possibility of powder sifting through. Overhand the top and cover with the green luster cotton to represent the calyx, leaving a loop for the stem.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Rounding the point to give the strawberry shape

Rounding the point to give the strawberry shape

Rounding the point to give the strawberry shape



To make the case: Fold the two edges of the muslin together and sew in a seam with the combination stitch, rounding the point to give the strawberry shape. Turn in a good seam at the top and gather. Fill with the powdered emery and fasten the gathering thread by overhanding over the top.


The completed seam sampler illustrating exercises nos. 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Exercise No. 12 Emery Balls.

Exercise No. 12 Emery Balls.

Exercise No. 12 Emery Balls.


Materials: Unbleached muslin, 6½" × 6½"; red cashmere 6½" × 6½" (this amount provides for four); thread, yellow, white and red; emery powder; needles No. 7 and No. 3; green luster cotton.

To cut the pattern of the strawberry emery ball: Draw a circle three inches in radius, and cut on the line.

Cut a circle from the unbleached muslin for the lining and one a quarter of an inch larger from the cashmere for the outside; cut both into quarters.

Exercise No. 11 Seam a Combination Stitch.

Exercise No. 11 Seam a Combination Stitch.

Exercise No. 11 Seam a Combination Stitch.


See description of "Seam Sampler" given above.

Materials: First section of Seam Sampler.

Fold with the warp through the center, and cut on the fold. Baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Sew with the Combination Stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

Seam Sampler.

Seam Sampler.

Detailed Description of Exercises.


Review: One inch, one-half inch, one-fourth inch.

Teach: One-eighth inch, three-eighths inch, seven-eighths inch.

Seam Sampler.


Materials: Plain percale 10" warp, 12" woof; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Five exercises of the Second Year Sewing will consist of seam work on the Seam Sampler. Each stitch will be first taught on the Practice Piece. Make pupils perfectly familiar with the names and uses of the different stitches as they are taught. As the year's work progresses compare the different seams and teach when, where and why these various seams are used in garment making. See "Description of Seams," . That the pupils may not lose interest in their sewing the seam work is alternated with miscellaneous exercises.

Fold the percale with the warp into three equal pieces. Cut off one piece. Have each pupil label her large piece with her name. Collect and put them away until ready for Seam B. Do not leave them in the boxes or they will be lost, or soiled with too much handling.

Seam Sampler.

Seam Sampler.

Detailed Description of Exercises.


Review: One inch, one-half inch, one-fourth inch.

Teach: One-eighth inch, three-eighths inch, seven-eighths inch.

Seam Sampler.


Materials: Plain percale 10" warp, 12" woof; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Five exercises of the Second Year Sewing will consist of seam work on the Seam Sampler. Each stitch will be first taught on the Practice Piece. Make pupils perfectly familiar with the names and uses of the different stitches as they are taught. As the year's work progresses compare the different seams and teach when, where and why these various seams are used in garment making. See "Description of Seams," . That the pupils may not lose interest in their sewing the seam work is alternated with miscellaneous exercises.

Fold the percale with the warp into three equal pieces. Cut off one piece. Have each pupil label her large piece with her name. Collect and put them away until ready for Seam B. Do not leave them in the boxes or they will be lost, or soiled with too much handling.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.


Prepare Thread Cards Cardboard 4" × 4", designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 11 Seam Sampler Seam A Combination Stitch.

Exercise No. 12 Emery Balls.

Exercise No. 13 Seam Sampler Seam B Stitching.

Exercise No. 14 Bags Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 15 Seam Sampler Seam C Half-Back Stitching.

Exercise No. 16 Doily Blanket Stitch Outline Stitch.

Exercise No. 17 Seam Sampler Seam D French Seam.

Exercise No. 18 A Pair of Dolls' Pillow Cases.

Exercise No. 19 Seam Sampler Seam E French Fell.

Exercise No. 20 Textile Fibers and Fabrics Silk.

Second Year Fourth Grade.

Second Year Fourth Grade.

Second Year Fourth Grade.


Course of instruction.

EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 20 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece Unbleached muslin 9" × 12".

The four running designs in Exercise No

The four running designs in Exercise No

The four running designs in Exercise No



The four running designs in Exercise No. 10 may be made into a doll's quilt by basting to a lining, turning in and overhanding the edges together and tacking. Pupils will furnish their own materials for the lining.

Instead of the small towel encourage children to ask their mothers for a dish towel which they can bring from home to hem. Some house-keeper of the neighborhood might be glad to have her dish-towels hemmed for her by the class.

Instead of the pot holder a child's picture-book may be substituted. See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," .

Exercise No. 10 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 10 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 10 Overhanding.


Materials: White thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Running designs 3 and 4 are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on the long sides of both pieces. Baste the folded edges together and overhand. Running designs 1 and 2 are to be overhanded to 3 and 4. Turn a quarter-inch fold at the top of one piece and the bottom of the other, baste the folded edges together and overhand.


DOLL'S QUILT ELECTIVE.

Electives. Pupils furnishing their own materials.

Electives. Pupils furnishing their own materials.

Electives. Pupils furnishing their own materials and teachers planning


Running designs No. 3 and 4 may be omitted, (this will also cut out Exercise No. 10) and selections from the following substituted to fill in the time, pupils furnishing their own materials and teachers planning their own designs:

Pen wipers.
Pin disks.
Needle books.
Small pin cushions for the sewing box.
A wiper for eye-glasses.

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Exercise No. 9 Running.

Exercise No. 9 Running.

Exercise No. 9 Running.


Materials: Running design No. 4, , 6" × 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Hemming a Towel.

Hemming a Towel.

Hemming a Towel.


Materials: Crash, 9" woof, 6" warp; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7; tape 4½ inches.

Turn one-fourth inch fold on each side and across the bottom and baste. Turn the second fold one-fourth of an inch on the sides and baste. Hem the sides. Turn an inch hem at the bottom, baste and hem, giving special attention to the corners where the bottom hem is turned over the side hems. Hem the top with a quarter-inch hem if there is no selvedge. Sew a loop in the middle of the top on the selvedge edge as follows: Turn in one-fourth of an inch at both ends of the tape. Place the ends of the tape side by side and down one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the towel. Hem around the ends of the tape and back-stitch across the tape just at the edge of the towel.

Exercise No. 8 Hemming Paper Folding For a Hem.

Exercise No. 8 Hemming Paper Folding For a Hem.

Exercise No. 8 Hemming Paper Folding For a Hem.


Materials: Paper 4½" × 7".

Fold the long way of the paper. First fold of the hem, one-fourth of an inch. Turn half an inch hem on one side and an inch hem on the other. Have each child cut from a card a gauge for measuring the hems and insist that the hems be turned evenly.

Teach the hemming stitch on the Practice Piece with colored thread. Trim the edge neatly, fold the hem accurately and baste in place. Bad habits, that are hard to correct later, can so easily be formed in making this stitch that I wish to caution teachers in regard to the position of the needle in relation to the hem, the amount of cloth taken on the needle and the tendency toward making the blind stitch or the damask hem instead of the plain hemming stitch.

Exercise No. 7 Running.

Exercise No. 7 Running.

Exercise No. 7 Running.


Materials: Running design No. 3, , 6" × 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 7 Running.

Exercise No. 7 Running.

Exercise No. 7 Running.


Materials: Running design No. 3, , 6" × 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Friday, June 13, 2014

Exercise No. 6 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 6 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 6 Overhanding.


Materials: White thread No. 50; needle No. 7. Running designs 1 and 2 are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on the long side of both pieces. Baste the folded edges together and overhand.

Exercise No. 5 Running.

Exercise No. 5 Running.

Exercise No. 5 Running.


Materials: Running design No. 2, , 6" × 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Draw the threads fairly tight and tie around the last nail

Draw the threads fairly tight and tie around the last nail

Draw the threads fairly tight and tie around the last nail



Tie a slip knot in the end of the wicking and slip it over one of the corner nails. Pass the wicking back and forth around the nails first on one side and then the other. This forms the warp. Draw the threads fairly tight and tie around the last nail. Thread the other color of wicking into the netting needles, weave across the warp threads alternately taking up and passing over them. In alternate rows take up the threads passed over in the preceding row. Do not draw the woof threads tight enough to draw the holder in at the sides. Slip from the frame and fasten the loose ends by weaving them back into the holder. Work a brass ring with the blanket stitch, using a strand of the wicking and sew it to one of the corners.

Exercise No. 4 Pot Holder Weaving Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 4 Pot Holder Weaving Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 4 Pot Holder Weaving Christmas Piece.


Materials: Weaving frame; netting needles; candle wicking in two colors; brass rings.


THE WOVEN POT HOLDER MADE OF CANDLE WICKING.

Teach the principles of cloth weaving and the terms warp, woof and selvedge.

The weaving frames are made from one-inch board, 8" × 8". Three-fourths of an inch from and parallel to the top and bottom drive a row of nails, having very small heads, one-half inch apart, leaving an inch margin at both sides.

Exercise No. 3 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 3 Overhanding.

Exercise No. 3 Overhanding.


Materials: Practice piece; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7. Teach the Overhanding Stitch on the Practice Piece. See "Description of Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," . Change the color of the thread once or twice and teach the joining of the thread. Baste two folded edges together and insist upon neat, careful work.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Exercise No. 2 Running.

Exercise No. 2 Running.

Exercise No. 2 Running.


Materials: Stamped running design No. 1, . Unbleached muslin 6" × 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch. See "Description of Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," .

The object of this model is to give the pupils practice in the running stitch. These designs are more interesting than practicing on plain cloth, so if the work is not satisfactory, cut the knot, pull out the thread, and try again. Give special attention to the knots and the fastening of the threads and the general neatness of the work. Place the knot on the wrong side and follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 1 Basting.

Exercise No. 1 Basting.

Exercise No. 1 Basting.


Materials: Unbleached muslin 5" × 8" stamped with the three basting stitches, No. 1, ; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 7.

Make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch. See "Description of Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," .

Beginning at the right hand follow the lines of the design with the thread, placing the knots over the dots on the right hand side and fastening over the dots at the left. Under each stamped row of stitches put in one, two, three or more rows, depending upon the rapidity with which each individual works. This will help to keep the class uniform.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.

Order of Exercises.


Prepare Thread Cards Cardboard 4" × 4", designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 1 Basting Design.

Exercise No. 2 Running Design No. 1.

Exercise No. 3 Overhanding on Practice Piece.

Exercise No. 4 Pot Holder Weaving Christmas Piece.

Exercise No. 5 Running Design No. 2.

Exercise No. 6 Overhanding Running Designs 1 and 2 together.

Exercise No. 7 Running Design No. 3.

Exercise No. 8 Hemming a Towel.

Exercise No. 9 Running Design No. 4

Exercise No. 10 Overhanding Running Designs 3 and 4 together. Overhanding Nos. 1 and 2 to 3 and 4.

, , , See Electives, .

NO. 4.

NO. 1.
NO. 2.

NO. 3.
CHILDREN IN NATIVE COSTUME.
SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS IN OUTLINE FOR THE RUNNING STITCH.

Detailed Description of Exercises.


Teach: One inch, one-half inch, one-fourth inch.

Practice: "Drills for Beginners," .

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.


EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 20 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece Unbleached muslin, 9" × 6".

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.

Course of instruction. First Year Third Grade.


EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion 20 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece Unbleached muslin, 9" × 6".

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Drill 3 Use of the thimble

Drill 3 Use of the thimble

Drill 3 Use of the thimble



Drill 3. Use of the thimble.

a. Push the needle with the thimble.

b. Push the needle back with the finger of the left hand.

Never allow a pupil to sew without a thimble.

Drill 4. Threading the yarn needle.

a. Prepare the yarn by loosening the end with the needle.

b. Place the yarn over the point of the needle and draw into a smooth loop.

c. Draw the needle out and thread into the loop.

Needles No. 10 will carry thread No. 100 90 80
Needles No. 9 will carry thread No. 90 80 70 60
Needles No. 8 will carry thread No. 70 60 50 40
Needles No. 7 will carry thread No. 50 40 30 20
Needles No. 6 will carry thread No. 20 10
Needles No. 5 will carry Linen thread Luster cotton

Drills For Beginners.

Drills For Beginners.

Drills For Beginners.


Drill 1. Threading the needle with cotton. Needle No. 8; colored thread.

a. Prepare the cotton by twisting between thumb and forefinger.

b. Place the thread in the eye of the needle.

c. Draw the thread through with the right hand.

Drill 2. Making the knot.

a. Hold the needle in the right hand and the end of the thread in the left.

b. Wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over, and twist the threads together by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb. Do not accept careless knots.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool

Thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool

Thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool



6. Thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool. In this way you are working with the twist of the thread and there is less danger of knotting and kinking.

7. Do not wet the thread in the mouth. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger and place through the eye of the needle.

8. To tie a knot wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over, and twist by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb. With the nail of the second finger bring the knot thus formed to the end of the thread.

9. Hold the unfinished work in the left hand.

10. Do not bite the threads.

11. Trim the selvedge, as it is hard to sew through and draws up when washed.

12. The knot is always buried except in the basting which is to be removed.

Place the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand

Place the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand

Place the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand



3. Place the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand. Either the side or end of the thimble can be used. Never sew without one.

4. Measure the thread either from shoulder to shoulder or from the end of the finger to the elbow. A long thread becomes soiled and worn before being used up and is more liable to knot.

5. Wind the thread once around the forefinger and break from the spool, because the broken thread twists more easily to a point than when cut. Cut the thread from the work when finished to avoid drawing the stitches or breaking at the wrong place.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Suggestions For Teachers

Suggestions For Teachers

Suggestions For Teachers. General directions for pupils of sewing classes.


General directions for pupils of sewing classes.

1. Be sure that the hands are clean.

2. Always sit erect well back in the seat with the light coming over the left shoulder, both feet upon the floor, because the body will not become as tired, the hand will not shade the work and it is easier to see the stitches. Do not fasten the work to the knee, because a stooping position easily becomes a habit.

It is a pedagogic truism that every teacher

It is a pedagogic truism that every teacher

It is a pedagogic truism that every teacher



It is a pedagogic truism that every teacher, consciously or unconsciously, imparts to her class her own inclinations. An enthusiastic class indicates an ardent interest on the part of the teacher, and a distaste for work and a lack of zeal on the part of the pupils are equally indicative of the teacher's attitude. Bear in mind that an unprepared teacher or a poorly presented lesson can make almost any exercise difficult and distasteful to the class. Do not blame pupils for poor work for which you are yourself responsible.

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others

Some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others

Some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others



It is not expected that the various pupils of the class will advance with the same degree of proficiency. Some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others. As it is greatly to the advantage of the class in the end, and saves time and tiresome repetition to give each new exercise or stitch as a class lesson, the average pupils should regulate the time for taking up new work. A teacher of resources will find ways and means of bringing up the work of slow pupils, and profitable 'busy work' for those who work more rapidly. For the former, a little extra time each day not as a punishment, but as an opportunity to catch up would be all that is necessary. For the latter, there is a great variety of interesting, useful work.

Avoid delay in distributing supplies

Avoid delay in distributing supplies

Avoid delay in distributing supplies



Avoid delay in distributing supplies.

Be sure that every member of the class understands clearly the object of the lesson.

Do not encourage waste by a too liberal supply of material.

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the careful preparation of the cloth to be used. Trim all edges neatly before hemming, facing, gathering, etc. Do not allow children to sew without basting. The time required for careful basting is well spent.

Saturday, June 7, 2014

There is absolutely no value in poor puttering work

There is absolutely no value in poor puttering work

There is absolutely no value in poor puttering work



There is absolutely no value in poor, careless, puttering work. Unless the child has a high ideal and strives to reach it, the time of the lesson is wasted. Encourage self-criticism. Work should be done to one's own satisfaction whether it is to be seen by others or not.

Do not allow pupils to take their work home unless it is some required practice work. It is not the object to cover a certain amount of ground, but to inculcate high standards of excellence and some technical skill. They cannot accomplish this by themselves. I would prefer that classes do not complete the entire course rather than have good work sacrificed to quantity. There is a difference between careful, painstaking effort, and the puttering away of valuable time.

Meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work

Meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work

Meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work



What are designated as "electives" in this book are designed to meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work a second time or of teachers who find the regular work too difficult.

Large classes can be handled with less wasted energy by dividing the class into groups that are doing the same work. This saves endless repetition and enables the teacher to give better general supervision. This is the most vulnerable point in class work. A teacher may work laboriously and still waste her own and the children's time by too close an adherence to the individual method of instruction. Those children whose turn comes toward the end of the line will have lost much of the value of the lesson.

Children require constant supervision. It is not teaching to examine the work when finished and order it ripped out. The fault is then with the teacher and not with the child. Each successive step should be inspected and corrected before the next one is taken. I would go still farther and have every pupil, even in the advanced grades, submit a sample of her work on every stitch to be used in each exercise. Children are always eager to begin a new piece, and if required to practice until the result is satisfactory will very soon do good work. You then have this to refer to and can hold them to their best.

Friday, June 6, 2014

Suggestions to teachers of Handycraft work

Suggestions to teachers of Handycraft work

Suggestions to teachers of Handycraft work


The teacher's preparation for the lesson consists in doing each exercise before presenting the lesson to the class. It will take some of your time to do so, but it will save hours of time and much worry in the end, and you will thus discover how best to present the difficult points of the lesson. A well finished piece gives to the child a complete mental picture of what she is undertaking, and acts as an inspiration; she will work quicker, easier, and better because of it. This impulse and a clear demonstration of the method of doing, will enable her to work far more independently of the teacher than would otherwise be possible, and will give more satisfactory results.

Explanatory Note.

Explanatory Note.

Explanatory Note.


The exercises in this five-year course are based upon an estimated time of one hour per week in the first two years, and one and one-half hours in the last three, the school year consisting of thirty-eight weeks.

All materials, with the exception of that used for the full-sized garments and some of the Christmas gifts, are supposed to be furnished by the Board of Education. In many instances the pupils are allowed the privilege of supplying themselves with a better grade of material if they wish. In every case a substitute is given for the full-sized garment if the home cannot furnish the material. All supplies can be purchased by the class collectively or individually, if the Board of Education so desires.

Every exercise in handicraft should embody an educational principle, making sure the training of the judgment, the eye, or the memory, and tending to develop skill, patience, accuracy, perseverance, dexterity or artistic appreciation.

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Basketry and Handicraft

Basketry and Handicraft

Basketry and Handicraft


A Tentative Course in

Needlework, Basketry, Designing, Paper and Card-Board
Construction, Textile Fibers and Fabrics
and Home Decoration and Care


Designed for Use in Schools and Homes